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Controls
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Here are the rudder
pedals installed. I had to sand out the pivot holes in the phenolic blocks
so that the pedals would swing freely. I also had to chamfer on side of
the hole so that it would clear the weld on the pedals. 8/27/00 |
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Here you can see
the adjuster strip that connects the pedals to the rudder cables. I had
to make mine a little longer than called for in the plans. I used the Sonex
pre-swedged rudder cables. They are quite nice. 8/27/00 |
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You can see I did
my springs a little differently that called for in the plans. I used a
3" spring I found at my local hardware store. One end attaches to the upright
angle the other replaces the cotter pin in the bolt holding the cable.
8/27/00 |
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This is where the
other end of the cable attaches to the rudder horn. I had to open up the
exit holes a little so the cable would not rub on the fuselage side skin.
8/27/00 |
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The last step was
to connect in the tail wheel steering push rod. 8/27/00 |
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Here I am installing
the flap torque tube. Again I had to sand out the phenolic blocks and chamfer
one of the edges so that every thing would pivot freely.
8/27/00 |
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I found a little
problem with where I placed the NACA vent. The hose that comes off the
back with be very close to the flap handle. I should have installed the
vent higher and a little farther forward. 8/27/00 |
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The brake handle
seems to be all right and does not interfere with the vent. I might have
to bend the flap handle a few more degrees. 8/27/00 |
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Here is the control
yoke for the dual sticks. I spent a lot of time working the bronze bushing
so that every thing moved freely but without any play.
8/27/00 |
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Here is the elevator
rush rod idler. I had to open up the hole in the rear spar carry-through
to clear the push rod. 8/27/00 |
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Here is the trim
tab installed and hinge pin safety wired in place. I also installed the
hinge pins in the elevator and rudder and cotter pinned them in place.
8/27/00 |
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Here I am logging
some more hangar flying time. I bought two carved teak stick grips. They
feel great and are left unvarnished so that the wood will absorb sweat
from your palm. I got them with a push to talk switch. 8/16/00 |
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Here you can see
how I am using the water bottle cages I installed. It is holding a Nissan
vacuum bottle with a flip top spout. 8/16/00 |
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These are the aileron
and flap pushrods with the ball rod ends installed. I used a die to clean
the powder coating off the threads. 8/16/00 |
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Here is the aileron
belcrank with the push rods installed. 8/16/00 |
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Here is the ball
rod end attached to the aileron as viewed from below. I usually like to
install the cotter pin as soon as I tighten a bolt but I have not installed
the cotter pins yet because I know I will need to adjust things later on.
8/16/00 |
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Here I am making
a initial adjustment to the ailerons. The first step was to center the
stick. I am using my framing square to hold the stick in the center.
10/15/00 |
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Next step was to
set the aileron center point. The plans call for setting a straight edge
along the top surface of the aileron and then measuring the distance
above the airfoil at the spar. 10/15/00 |
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Here is the view
from behind. To be centered the straight edge should be 2 29/32" above
the spar. 10/15/00 |
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Here is what I am
trying instead of a manual flap handle. It is an electric ball screw actuator.
It is good for 100 lbs. of force, uses about 3 amps while in motion and
weighs about 1.3 lbs. The actuator is free-wheeling at the
ends so there is no need for limit switches. All that is need is a double
pole, double throw, center off momentary switch to raise and lower the
flaps. 12/15/00 |
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I got the actuator
from Motion Systems Corporation
. It is model #85615, 12 volt, 6" stroke, 15:1 reduction, ball rod
end, and the pivot hole drilled 90° to the gearbox. Don't tell them
it is for an aircraft. I said it was for a three wheeled, off-road vehicle.
8^) It cost me about $230. 12/15/00 |
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The gear box pivot
will ride on a clevis bolt suspended between the fuselage side and a support
shown here. 12/15/00 |
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Here is a close
up of the support which will get bolted to the vertical angle.
10/15/00 |
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Here is the ball
rod end bolted to the lever arm. I discovered one problem using the rod
end. As the actuator extends and retracts it tends to torque the
rod end slightly and can even unscrew the rod end if the stop nut is not
tight. I am looking at a way to safety wire the rod end so there is no
chance of it coming off. 10/15/00 |
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Here you can see
how I safety-wired the ball end. I drilled a 1/16" hole through the arm
and the threaded part of the rod end and then inserted safety-wire through
the hole. 6/10/01 |
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 CAUTION:
This web site is in no way a publication of Sonex, Ltd. or any other corporation.
All products mentioned are not necessarily recommended for use, but are
included for informational purposes only. Builders tips and instructions
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Builder's tips and instructions are presented only as a source of information
and a forum for exchange and the sharing of ideas and construction methods.
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© 1999-2000 David Koelzer.
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