|
|
|
 |
Here is my carburetor heat box, Mark I. The exit that goes to the carb is on the front of the box. This would not be a problem for the VW or Jabiru 2200 engines but the Six cylinder Jabiru leaves very little room between the carb and the firewall. 2/25/01 |
 |
Here is carb heat box Mark II. The exit is on the side and makes for a better run to the carb. 2/25/01 |
 |
This is a look inside at the flap valve that directs fresh air or heated air. 2/25/01 |
 |
Here you can see
how the SCAT tube runs to the carb. You can also see the K&N
filters part # RB-0700. I ordered my filter from http://www.martelbros.com/.
It costs about $25, but the nice thing is, when it gets dirty you just
wash it out and re-oil the
filter. 2/25/01 |
 |
This is the right side of the box and the run to the carb. 2/25/01 |
 |
This is the oil cooler that came with my Jabiru. It is actually a transmission fluid cooler. It is very light weight and has a lot of surface area. 2/25/01 |
 |
I made a two part box to surround the oil cooler to direct the air flow. 2/25/01 |
 |
I made the box with an air tight exit as well so I can run the hot air to a cabin heater or out of the cowling. 2/25/01 |
 |
Here it is drilled and with the flanges installed. 2/25/01 |
 |
The oil pan on the Jabirus have cooling fins on the bottom. I made this duct to force cool air over those fins. I left the forward scoop long for now. I will trim it later so it just protrudes through the cowling. 2/25/01 |
 |
Even though John says the bubble canopy provides all the solar heating you need, I want to have cabin heat in my plane for those cloudy days. My reasoning may have been biased by the rather chilly weather we have been having this year. This box is similar to the carb heat box. The hot air will come in the top and be redirected through the firewall or out the bottom. 2/25/01 |
 |
Here you can see the side of the box that will rest against the firewall. The hole in the firewall will be about 1/4" smaller that the rectangular hole you see here in the backer plate. That will give the flap valve something to rest against. 2/25/01 |
 |
Here is a close up of the flap valve. 2/25/01 |
 |
My cabin heat box fits right next to the battery box. 2/25/01 |
 |
Here it is with the hose flanges. I am hoping that the oil cooler will produce enough heat so I can run the hot air into the cabin heat box. If that does not give me enough heat then I can make a heat muff on one of the exhaust pipes. I also figure I can change the hoses in the summer and run cool air into the cabin. 2/25/01 |
 |
Here is the air diffuser on the inside of the firewall. I wanted to spread the hot air out so it would not cook my passengers feet. I tested this out by reversing the air on my shop vac and blowing through the cabin heat box. This design did not divert the air at all. It blew right through. 2/25/01 |
 |
Here is my diffuser Mark II. It is one piece of aluminum with slots cut in it with a Dremel cut-off wheel. This design is lighter and diffuses the air better. 2/25/01 |
 |
Here you can see the arm I attached to operate the flap valve. The push pull cable will anchor at the top. The vent is just above the passengers left foot. 2/25/01 |
 |
Mmmmmaaa, I can already feel that nice warm air. 2/25/01 |
 |
After hearing about the trouble some are having with the barbed tube fitting of the stock oil cooler I bought the Jegs part # 130-70265 recommended by Sonex. It is similar to the stock cooler but has 1/2" NPT threaded fittings and is less likely to throw a hose. 9/16/01 |
 |
Here you can see how I am hooking up my new AeroCarb to the air box. While the AeroCarb does not need carb heat, I already had the box installed so I went ahead and used it anyway. 9/16/01 |
 |
Since I was added a cabin heater I also added a defroster for the windshield. This fits just ahead of the gas tank. It uses a slide valve to control the air and a deflector to push the air up to the windscreen. 9/16/01 |
 |
Here is the front side of the firewall where I placed the 1" flange to receive a scat hose. I will pull air from the same source as the cabin heat. 9/16/01 |
 |
Here you can see the hole I cut in the glarescreen to allow the defroster air to come through. The Sonex windshield is so long that I don't think you would be able to clear it with your hand in the event it fogs up. 9/16/01 |
 |
Here are the deflectors that fit over the cooling fins. These force the air to go between the fins rather that just passing by them. I placed similar deflector under the cylinders to keep the air in the fins as long as possible. 1/19/02 |
 |
To fit under the Sonex cowl I had to trim the Jabiru's plenum boxes. It was a lots a lot of repeated trim & fit cycles to get it to fit just right. I drilled the outside of the box so that it could be held by the valve cover bolts. 1/19/02 |
 |
The bottom of the stock plenum box would have let a lot of the air pass under the first cylinder and it interfered with the oil filter. So I made a new ramp the directs the air up into the box. This again took a lot of trial and error to get a ramp that would fit in the box and against the cylinder. 1/19/02 |
 |
The #1 cylinder on the right is ever father forward and it takes a lot of trimming to get it to fit under the cowl. You can also see that I had to trim the fins on the head to clear the cowl. 1/19/02 |
 |
Here you can see the ramp I made for the right side. It is so near the cowl inlet that it is more of a dam than a ramp. You can also see the "h" section rubber molding that I used to get a tight seal against the cowl. I stitched it on with .021 safety wire. 1/19/02 |
 |
As you can see I opened up the inlets quite lot to let the maximum amount of air into the plenum boxes. I trimmed a lot off the top of the inlet to let air flow up easily especially at high angles of attack like in a climb. 1/19/02 |
|
|
|
 CAUTION:
This web site is in no way a publication of Sonex, Ltd. or any other corporation.
All products mentioned are not necessarily recommended for use, but are
included for informational purposes only. Builders tips and instructions
are not meant to replace the plans and instructions from Sonex, Ltd.. All
Builder's tips and instructions are presented only as a source of information
and a forum for exchange and the sharing of ideas and construction methods.
NO responsibility or liability is assumed, expressed, or implied as to
the suitability, accuracy, safety, or approval thereof. Any party using
the suggestions, ideas, instructions or examples on these pages, does so
at their own risk and discretion and without recourse against anyone. |
|
| All content Copyright © 1999-2002 David Koelzer. All rights reserved. | |
| Sonextm is a registered trademark of Sonex Ltd. | |
| Webspace provided by MurkWorks Incorporated |