|
Tail Fairing
|
| |
|
| |
|
 |
Here are the fiberglass
tips I purchased from Sonex. I had previously riveted the original tip
ribs in place so I had to drill them out. Not fun. Once I got the old tip
ribs off it was easy to use them to fit the new fiberglass tips.
6/12/00 |
 |
You also have to
cut the tip to clear the control surfaces as well as making a rib to fill
in the aft part of the fiberglass tip. My Dremel with a cut-off wheel
zipped right through the fiberglass. 6/12/00 |
 |
I think it looks
pretty good. I still have to modify the rudder tip to accept my tail position
light. And there is still a whole lot of filling and sanding to do.
6/12/00 |
 |
To fit the tail
nav light I made a fiberglass fairing. I started with a polyurethane foam
block and sanded it to shape. I glued that to the fin with a mixture of
epoxy and micro balloons. I then inlet the nav light housing into the back
of the fin and covered everything with a layer of bi-directional fiber
glass cloth. Finally, I used SuperFil to fill in the weave and smooth
every thing out. 12/15/00 |
 |
I tried something
different for the fairing between the vertical and horizontal stabilizer.
To make the 6061 T6 easier to work with, I annealed the aluminum. Annealing
weakens the aluminum so you should only do it on non-structural parts.
12/15/00 |
 |
First step is to
set your torch to a carbonizing flame and coat the part with a layer of
soot. 12/15/00 |
 |
Then set your torch
to a neutral flame and slowly play the flame across the part. As the part
warms up the soot will burn off which is your indication that part is hot
enough. Be careful though, if you heat the part to much it will start to
discolor and even melt. 12/15/00 |
 |
Once the part was
annealed I used my small brake to bend up the edges. I then hand bent the
center over a 1" pipe to form the nice curve. 12/15/00 |
 |
The plans call for
using just sheet metal screws to attach the fairing. However, I used A6191-8Z-1
speed nuts and stainless steel "Type B" sheet metal screws. I think these
will be less prone to stripping than sheet metal screws alone. 12/15/00 |
 |
Rather than making
the faring in two parts as shown in the plans. I maked it just one
piece. It does not follow the angle of the turtle deck perfectly but I
think it looks better. 12/15/00 |
 |
I also made provisions
in the fairing for the trim cable to exit. 12/15/00 |
 |
And I made perfect
fairings on the first try. These extras...ah....I made for...ah...another
project. Yea, that's it.. another project. ;-) 12/15/00 |
|
|
| |
|
|
 CAUTION:
This web site is in no way a publication of Sonex, Ltd. or any other corporation.
All products mentioned are not necessarily recommended for use, but are
included for informational purposes only. Builders tips and instructions
are not meant to replace the plans and instructions from Sonex, Ltd.. All
Builder's tips and instructions are presented only as a source of information
and a forum for exchange and the sharing of ideas and construction methods.
NO responsibility or liability is assumed, expressed, or implied as to
the suitability, accuracy, safety, or approval thereof. Any party using
the suggestions, ideas, instructions or examples on these pages, does so
at their own risk and discretion and without recourse against anyone. |
|
|
|
All content Copyright
© 1999-2000 David Koelzer.
All rights reserved. |
|
Sonextm
is a registered trademark of Sonex
Ltd. |
|
Webspace provided by MurkWorks
Incorporated |
