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Here I am getting
ready to solder my RMI MicroEncoder.
It will act as my airspeed indicator, altimeter, vertical speed, outside
air temperature gauge and transponder encoder. It comes in kit form or
pre-assembled. I got the kit. Al I needed as a few simple tools and a soldering
iron. Also I recommend getting your bifocal prescription checked. There
a about a million tiny parts that you have to assemble. I bought a magnifying
light like you see here. 6/10/01 |
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The instructions
are very detailed and even though this was my first electronics project
since building crystal radios in Junior High, I was able to assemble it
over a weekend with no problems.. 6/10/01 |
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Here I am inserting
the chips. Notice the anti-static work surface and wrist band. These are
a must, especially if you live in a dry climate or during the winter. This
picture shows the unit almost completely assembled. When you pull it out
of the box it is just an intimidating pile of components. However, everything
is clearly labeled and it went together just as the manual says.
6/10/01 |
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Here the soldering
is finished and it is on to the freezer. Yes, freezer. Part of the burn-in
process is 1 hour in the freezer. Then it goes into a 140° over for
48 hours and then back into the freezer for 1 hour. If it survives that
it will have no problem in your cockpit on a sunny day or the coldest winter.
6/10/01 |
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Here is the back
of the MicroEncoder. The top two plugs are for the pitot and static lines.
The lower right connector is for the connections tot he transponder. Their
manual has the pinouts for almost every transponder you might want to use.
The lower left connector is for the power, OAT, audio out and serial connections.
6/10/01 |
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Here is the MicroEncoder
powered up in my panel. I could then spend a lot of time garage flying..
er rather verifying the ergonomic cockpit factors (it was a blast) To the
right of the MicroEncoder is the EIS. I mounted it from behind the panel
so that I would not have such a big hole in my panel. Below that is the
hole for my Garmin GTX 320 transponder. It was a real pain to mount and
I wish Microair had their
2 1/2" transponder
ready when I needed it. 6/10/01 |
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I debated whether
to leave my panel brushed AL or to paint it. Since most of my instruments
have black faces I thought it would look better painted. I used a self-etching
primer on the AL and then a satin black automotive trim paint on the top
of the primer. . 6/10/01 |
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For labels I used
my laser printer. I designed the labels in Visio and printed them onto
clear plastic labels I got from the local office supply store. I then laminated
them onto white paper labels. The plastic clear labels are water proof
and the white labels give the the contrast to stand out on the black background.
Also the clear labels have a satin finish that nicely matches the black
satin paint. 6/10/01 |
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You can use the
clear labels without the white labels for an unpainted panel. If you want
to look at my Visio document you can download it by clicking
here. 6/10/01 |
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Here I am a little
further along with my panel. I am beginning to see the wisdom of a more
simple Sonex panel. You will note that I have not installed the gas tank
or glare screen yet. It makes it much easier to install the instruments
and wiring. I also made a lot of use of Bill Von Dane's Experemental
Panel Builder to lay out my panel, thanks Bill. 7/23/01 |
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Here you can see
the left side of my panel. I have made a couple of changes. In the center,
where I was going to install a attitude indicator, I am installing a angle
of attack indicator. It is a home made unit that is similar to the "Lift
Reserve Indicator". It can built for less than $60. http://www.snyder.on.ca/pages/lri.htm
You will also note the ammeter above the starter switch. I could not decide
whether to put the shunt on the main buss feed or the alternator buss feed.
So I put a shunt on each and connected them to a DPDT switch so I can check
both amperages. 7/23/01 |
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Here you can see
how I cut the mounting hole for the EIS. Rather than one big hole which
I thought would weaken the panel, I just cut holes for the display and
buttons. The EIS has a back light but it was too bright for night flying.
Grand Rapids offered to change my unit so I could use my external dimmer
if I sent them the unit. I also mounted a watch on the panel. This
one can do military style time, has two time zones (local and zulu), stopwatch,
timer and can be set by turning the front bezel. Timex
i-Control Expedition. 7/23/01 |
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Here is a FAA required
placard. You should always point this out to your passengers. It will put
their mind as ease. Also note the remote control for the ELT just
above the placard 7/23/01 |
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Here is my throttle
quadrant. I messed up when I installed the carb heat knob. The housing
rotated as I tightened the nut and wrinkled the label. I will have to replace
that. 7/23/01 |
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Here is a close-up
of the cabin heat knob and head phone jacks. I used washers from Aeroelectric
to isolate the jacks from the airframe. 7/23/01 |
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Here is my flap
gauge for my electric flaps. 7/23/01 |
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 CAUTION:
This web site is in no way a publication of Sonex, Ltd. or any other corporation.
All products mentioned are not necessarily recommended for use, but are
included for informational purposes only. Builders tips and instructions
are not meant to replace the plans and instructions from Sonex, Ltd.. All
Builder's tips and instructions are presented only as a source of information
and a forum for exchange and the sharing of ideas and construction methods.
NO responsibility or liability is assumed, expressed, or implied as to
the suitability, accuracy, safety, or approval thereof. Any party using
the suggestions, ideas, instructions or examples on these pages, does so
at their own risk and discretion and without recourse against anyone. |
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© 1999-2000 David Koelzer.
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